I am happy to say that the bracken bed was a partial, if not a complete success. I went to bed a little apprehensive, it seemed no warmer than usual. – bloody freezing! But I managed to get to sleep before long.
I woke up in the middle of the night. To my delight, I was as warm as toast. With a little difficulty I got back to sleep. About three hours later, I woke up again feeling somewhat colder. From then until daylight – at around 7.30, I dozed; not warm, not cold, but infinitely better than the previous night. Note to aspiring campers. November is definately not the time to go camping in northern France!
We had a good breakfast. I fried mine – tomatoes and tuna fish with French bread and tea.
11 am. We took our time in setting off, Cherbourg is only a few hours run. It was cold and misty at first. But not long after, the clouds cleared, and the sun came out, turning the sky into a blue, cloudless summer-like day – seen from inside the warm car of course! We were on an unknown road now, but navigation was easy. We had time and petrol so we made for Bayeux to look at the Tapestry.
Every town and village we passed through had on a newly built look. And of course they were, or at least re-built. Normandy saw some of the fiercest fighting of the war and few of the buildings had escaped damage. It was hard to believe that this peaceful Sunday landscape was witness to all this. But less than twenty years ago, well within my lifetime, men younger than I am now were fighting – and getting killed right here. All morning my thoughts were filled with it. Maybe I have a morbid turn of mind, but as I see it, my thoughts are as much of fascination as sorrow.
Having read so much about war and its consequences, I am as much against it – maybe more – than anyone. We reached Bayeux in the lunch hour so we drove on to Arromanches, the scene of some of the British landings on D Day, 6th. June, 1944. Many of the remains of Mulberry Harbour – the artificial harbour, are to be seen. The pilot who guided it across is a friend of mine in Jersey, getting on now but still full of beans. It is interesting to note that the first British troops to storm the beaches were the 50th. Northumberland Fusiliers; Joan, my fiancée’s home county. They were the ones who also liberated Bayeux, the first French town to be freed on 7th. June. Arromanches has a fine invasion museum, and we spent a very interesting hour there before returning to Bayeux. The city has a magnificent Norman cathedral, one of the finest I have ever seen. Nearby is the public library which is the home of the Bayeux Tapestry. The Tapestry occupies nearly four walls of the room. It is one of the most beautiful works of art I have ever seen. It is a great work of art as far as I am concerned, despite its low classification – being mere embroidery. For those who don’t know, it depicts the invasion of England in 1066 by William the Conqueror and the preparations which led up to it. It is in surprisingly good condition; difficult to believe it is nearly nine hundred years old. Fabulous! Thereafter was but a short run to Cherbourg which we reached at 5.15. We made straight for an A A recommended hotel and booked in. The very first thing was to take a complete toilet; bath, shave etc. The first bath for a month! Don’t worry, we had kept ourselves clean and didn’t stink – I don’t think so! We changed and went down for a meal feeling nearly civilised again. As could be expected from the French, the dinner was excellent. A bottle of Beaujolais ’57 completed the – picture. I felt like bed but Allan has gone out for a walk. And I had my diary duty to fulfil for posterity!
So now the momentous journey is nearly over. The last day has exceeded the first in both weather and interest. A good way to end I should say. Tomorrow we fly back to Jersey. Goodnight.
Speedo reading: 18520. 169 mls. (4976)