Not a bad night, but again the siren woke us up at 6 am.
It is still raining and the tent must be very heavy. There is nothing else for it but to pack it while it is wet and in the rain – not a pleasant prospect.
9.45 am. On the road. Finally emerged from the chaos of Neapolitan traffic at 10.35 onto the Autostrada del Sole. The rule of driving in Naples is that everyone has the right of way, which means hoot and overtake when or if you can. It is a bit nerve-racking at first until you get used to it. Unreservedly, and speaking for us both, I can say we like Naples and its environs. It is easy to see why people rave over this part of Italy. The Italian people too are much nicer than the ones we see in Jersey. Definitely, I can endorse the words “Torna a Napoli” – come back to Naples. Incidentally, I am writing this as we drive – not too easy.
Unfortunately, the Autostrada is not yet finished, and we shall have to leave it after twenty-five miles. I think that these Autostradas are spoiling us.
It is raining still; heavy grey clouds sweep the sky.
Everywhere by the roadside we see flooded fields – evidence of last night’s “monsoon.” The next town on our route is Capua. The rain is absolutely pouring down now – the sky is black. So much for sunny Italy although it is not cold. It was 60 at the Autostrada office. Rain, rain and more rain!
Now the road is running below field level. Muddy brown water is pouring out onto the road, in places flooding it to a depth of several inches. At times, my wipers were just not fast enough to cope. When is it going to end?
It cleared up for a while as we were passing through some mountains which were wreathed on cloud on either side.
According to the book, the ranges are the Sabini, the Volscian and Alban mountains.
We are now passing through districts which saw some of the most bitter fighting of the war. It was a sobering sight indeed to see a large American cemetery. Row upon row of white crosses, thousands of them. Like the D-Day beaches at Normandy, the saddest sights I have ever seen.
Soon we shall be at Monte Cassino. The old abbey at the very top of the steep mount was completely destroyed in the Allies’ siege of the Germans who were stubbornly entrenched there. The siege lasted from February to May, 1944. A new abbey has been built to replace it. In fact, practically the whole town is new but evidence of the shelling is still to be seen.
8.15 pm. The rest of the journey proved uneventful. Rain off and on until we neared Rome, when miraculously it cleared and the sun came out. Our fist intention was to find a camp site which was marked on the map. But after fruitlessly searching up and down, wasting time we decided to go into the city, see what we could in a short space of time, and then find another camp just outside Vatican City.
And so we came to the Eternal City. I can just sit here and think of the word Rome, just the name itself, and wonder at the marvels, past and present. For me, as usual it is the past. All around there is evidence of Imperial Rome and once again my mind strives to go back in time. In my mind’s eye I can see people, the inhabitants of Ancient Rome walking about on these very roads over which I am now driving. It is a strange feeling and one I am sure I will never be able to fully describe. All I can say is I am fascinated, for want of a better word.
Rounding a corner we came upon the Colosseum, and what a colossal structure it is, even now. I had believed it was made of stone and marble, but instead I find that most of it is made of very finely engineered brickwork.
Note: I found out much later, that it was indeed covered with marble, which, over the centuries was taken, and used for other things.
Surprisingly, entrance was free, and I entered, feeling somewhat like an alcoholic must feel when he gets his hand on a bottle. How long it took to build I would not care to guess. I think I have some reading to do when I get home.
Adjacent to the Colosseum is the Arch of Constantine, another impressive and well preserved piece of architecture. And just across the road is the Forum. No words of mine can suffice. This is where Allan and I differ. Unlike him, I could come and spend a holiday here just for the history all around. This trip has only served to whet my appetite for more. To come again will be a life’s ambition. But I am not dissatisfied. Some people never get the chance that I/we got. I am very, very grateful for the opportunity which came knocking, and was not turned away.
Our road to the campsite passed Vatican City, so we drove into St. Peter’s Square with the intention of taking a look at the Sistine Chapel. But it was too late, and things were closing down for the night. Maybe we will get the chance tomorrow morning before we leave Rome.
Finding the campsite was no easy matter – we were lost. Fortunately we saw a “carabinieri” – police office. There we were given correct directions and drove here without much trouble. Naturally it was dark when we arrived, but so used are we now to erecting the tent, that it went up in no time at all. On with the cooking.
Now, after a meal we intend to go into Rome to see the city at night. Due to the tight schedule we have to be on the road again by the morning, headed for Pisa.
The rain has now started again! What surely would have been a pleasant hour or two was spoiled. I didn’t think it would be much fun driving around in the rain so I voiced my opinion to Allan. Although he had said he was keen to go he didn’t offer much resistance, and was soon in bed well before me. I hope he doesn’t think me a wet blanket, and I certainly didn’t want to spoil his fun. But personally, I have had enough of the rain for one holiday, and would rather not see a thing if the impact is going to be lost in the rain. With that in mind – goodnight.
Speedo reading: 17087. 203 mls. (3543)